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more new zealand holiday ideas
..walking the milford track
Around 100 years ago, in an article that appeared in the London Spectator, the poet Blanche Baughan declared the Milford Track to be ‘the finest walk in the world’. Here is a little of what she said:
"This is truly the "region of the perpendicular" - the mountains are split right straight down from their summits to within a few hundred feet of sea level. The other valley-side, perhaps half-a-mile from its fellow, is equally steep and just as precipitous; and presently, as the track ascends, as the trees lessen both in size and number, and the frowning white-tipped walls begin to draw together above the canyon, you realise that you are walking at the bottom of a gigantic furrow of the earth."
Milford Track is arguably New Zealand’s most famous walk. The 53 kilometre journey begins at the head of Lake Te Anau, and leads you across suspension bridges, board walks and a mountain pass. The Milford Track will show you pristine lakes, sky-scraping mountain peaks and enormous valley views; and it will take you to feel the misty breath of Sutherland Falls, the tallest waterfall in New Zealand.
On a sunny day it is postcard perfect but some walkers say that only when it rains, and torrents of water cascade down the steep mountainsides, have you truly experienced the magic of the Milford Track.
Guided walkers take five days and four nights to complete the 53 kilometre track; independent walkers usually take a day and night less. The track is always walked from south to north, to minimise impact on the environment. There are three public accommodation huts and three private lodges on the track; camping is not permitted.
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The Forgotten Highway threads its way from Taranaki through forests of beech and
small villages (including the unique ‘republic’ of Whangamomona) to Taumarunui,
located in the foothills of the Tongariro National Park. Further north, the world-famous
Waitomo Glow-worm Caves were formed 30 million years ago and discovered in 1887
by Tane Tinorau and Fred Mace. South of Auckland, on the western coastline, the
harbour townships of Kawhia and Raglan were once important ports prior to the advent
of road and rail. Today traditional kiwi baches form the majority of dwellings but
larger, architecturally designed houses verify that the west coast has become a
popular lifestyle choice for many. On our final scenic North Island drive we travel
from New Plymouth to Auckland via Taumarunui, Waitomo, Kawhia and Raglan. We visit
the gravesite of Billy Gumboot the goat (ex-president of Whangamomona!), float on
a raft beneath galaxies of glowworms, enjoy a cultural tour of Kawhia by boat, take
a hot sandy bath at Te Puia Springs and arrive in Auckland relaxed and ready to
see the scenic South Island.
day one: new plymoth to taumarunui via the forgotten highway
Key
- Destinations
- Apex Locations
It’s hard to leave New Plymouth with so much left to do. We’ve walked in Pukekura
Park and visited the impressive rhododendron dells of Pukeiti, but the Sugar Loaf
Islands Marine Park and the Taranaki Mineral Pools - where you can soak in 27,000-year-old
thermal waters - remain outstanding.
“Never mind,” say Bob as we exit town on SH3 to Inglewood. “It’s always good to
leave something to come back to.” At Lake Mangamahoe we stop for a photo of Mt Taranaki’s
reflection on the water’s tranquil surface before continuing to the outskirts of
Inglewood, where we drive up the mountain through forest bearded densely with lichen
and mosses to the Dept. of Conservation information centre. Its displays prove excellent
– as do the views – and after soaking up the scenery we drive on to Stratford’s
Clock Tower in time for the 10 am glockenspiel, where the tragedy of Shakespeare’s
Romeo and Juliet unfolds to the peal of bells.
After enjoying a latté in the sun we leave town on SH43, or the Forgotten Highway
as it’s more commonly known. Flanked by the railroad it’s a heritage trail that
runs from Stratford to Taumarunui and has several attractions en route including
a brick kiln and boarding house, a disused coalmine, coal seams on the roadside,
old bridges and tunnels, riverboat landings and several Maori heritage sites.
We pass the rustic brick kiln and at Strathmore Saddle we stop to stretch our legs
and admire the views of Mt Taranaki to the west, and Mt Tongariro, Mt Ruapehu and
Mt Ngauruhoe to the east.
In Whangamomona there’s a pub, a café and a garage – and not a heck of a lot more
at first glance. A guy in the garage gives us a friendly wave as we pass by. “Let’s
stop for lunch here,” says Bob pointing to M&M’s Café, housed in what was once the
old Australasia bank. Inside we meet Marg – one of the M’s – her husband Mert, at
the garage, is the other...
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New Plymouth to Auckland scenic drive, courtesy of apex car rentals
new zealand... the kiwi way
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north island scenic drives
south island scenic drives
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